Take your phone and open TikTok. Now whisper the word “solo trip” 3 times near your microphone. Swipe a few times. You should now be watching a video of someone pointing at an actively erupting volcano from waaaay too close.
Bienvenidos a Guatemala. The land of eternal spring. Home to more volcanoes than I’ve had hot dinners. Which, when I was travelling in Guatemala in spring 2025, wasn’t that many. Home to the biggest indigenous population in Latin America, (per capita, I’m pretty sure both Brazil has them beaten in the numbers game), Guatemala is a melting pot of Maya, Latino, Afro-Caribbean and European cultures. Home to dramatic highlands, volcanic beaches, colonial cities and enough ruins to shake a stick at. Guatemala is experiencing a bit of a spotlight moment right now. And for good reason
And yet this country and it’s people are still so misunderstood by those from the outside looking in. Tell your mum right now that you’re thinking about going to Guatemala. If she’s anything like my mum, she’s instantly started thinking you’re going to get off that plane and immediately end up in the boot of some cartel boss’s car. But that’s just not the case.
Even with its fairly well developed tourism infrastructure, Guatemala can be an overwhelming place. And with it being so diverse you may not know where to start planning your trip. Fear not! I am here to help!
Start Here!
Routes and itineraries
Look, Guatemala is not very big in the grand scheme of things. Compared to other well-travelled countries in Latin America like Colombia and Peru, it’s actually quite small. But overland travel here is hard work. Even if you’re exclusively taking taxis or shuttles, the time it takes to travel the roughly 50 miles from Antigua to Panajachel on Lake Atítlan can vary from one hour to five. Guatemala City is the biggest city in Central America, and you know you’re near it when the highway you’re driving on suddenly transforms into the worlds biggest car park.
And outside of the more densely populated southern regions, the roads are abysmal and poorly maintained, if at all. Sometimes, your map will tell you you’re on a highway, but you’ll look out the window and see you’re actually on a dirt track between an active quarry and a 100ft drop. True story!
With that in mind, I think the minimum amount of time you can spend in Guatemala and feel like you’ve experienced some of what the country has to offer is two weeks. But personally, I would recommend setting aside at least a month here to fully experience everything this country has to offer.
The Volcano Special – 2 Weeks
Antigua & Lake Atítlan
If you only have 2 weeks to spend in Guatemala, you should prioritise spending time in Antigua and Lake Atítlan.
Assuming you arrive via Guatemala City airport, head directly to Antigua and spend at least 4 nights here, exploring the city. If you’re feeling adventurous, take the challenge of climbing Acatenango, one of the many volcanoes in Guatemala. This is an overnight hike, and upon your return to Antigua, I recommend you spend one night recovering. Then, make a beeline to Panajachel and base yourself in one of the towns around the lake for the rest of the week.
If the idea of spending too many nights in one place gives you itchy feet, and you have the cash to burn, you could hop on a flight to Mundo Maya airport and visit Tikal. Or, you could head west, taking a shuttle for roughly three hours to the surf town of El Parédon. Some people even go as far as adding an excursion to Honduras! The ancient Mayan city of Copán is only a 6 hour drive from Antigua.
Ultimately though, you will be basing yourself in the area around Antigua and Lake Atitlan, two very popular parts of the country.
Mayan Jungle Adventure – 3-4 Weeks
Flores -> Lanquín -> Antigua -> Lake Atitlan
If you have a few weeks to spare, then you could consider doing the following.
Cross into Guatemala by land via the Benque Viejo/Melchor de Menos border crossing from Belize. From here, head straight to Flores, the perfect base to visit Tikal. Aim to spend 3 nights here, to allow for a day to explore the island. Rest up before you make the mammoth journey to Lanquín, for Semuc Champey.
I cannot emphasise enough how brutal this journey can be. So I would recommend you spend at least 3 nights here, particularly if you are staying in a hostel like Zephyr Lodge or Greengos.
From here, it’s another full day of travel to Antigua, where you should spend at least 5 nights. One of these nights will likely be spent on top of Acatenango. Even if you don’t do the climb, it’s worth spending a good chunk of time here as there is so much to see and do.
Finally, head west to Lake Atítlan, where you can spend a week at one of the many Spanish schools here. If this doesn’t tickle your fancy, there is no shortage of activities around the lake to occupy your time. Onward travel to either El Salvador or Honduras is easy from Panajachel and San Pedro. Alternatively, head back towards Guatemala City to catch a flight elsewhere.
Greatest Hits – 6 Weeks
Flores -> Lanquín -> Quetzaltenango -> Lake Atítlan -> Antigua -> El Parédon
OR
Flores -> Lanquín -> Rio Dulce -> Antigua -> Lake Atítlan -> El Parédon
As with the 3 week itinerary, enter Guatemala by land from Belize and head to Flores, then onto Lanquín for Semuc Champey.
Here, the paths diverge.
Either catch a shuttle to the mountain city of Quetzaltenango for volcano hikes and Mayan culture. Then catch a bus down to Lake Atítlan. You can even do this leg on foot, if you have the time (or the stamina!). Then, make your way to Antigua and make the most of your time here.
Or, head to Rio Dulce, for rainforest nature spotting and river cruises, and a trip to the town of Livingston for a taste of Garifuna culture, totally different from the rest of Guatemala. From here, head to Antigua, then Lake Atítlan.
Regardless of which route you take, you’ll end in the (not-so) sleepy surf town of El Parédon, a relaxing way to end your time in Guatemala. It’s well connected to Antigua and Guatemala City, so onward travel is pretty straightforward. There are also direct links to Santa Ana, El Salvador from here.
Where to visit
Flores & Tikal
Flores, or Isla de Flores, is an island just off the shore of Lago Petén in northern Guatemala. If you’re travelling from North to South through Central America, crossing from Belize, or just coming to see Tikal, you’ll more than likely be spending at least one day here. Most people just use Flores as a base for Tikal, but it should be considered a destination in its own right.
Cobbled streets and colonial charm, the island itself is tiny. You could walk the whole way around in about 30 minutes if you wanted to. But for a town this size, Flores packs a real punch. The town is full to the brim with restaurants and bars. Ranging from small, rough-round the edges dives and street food vendors cooking up Guatemalan-style tacos, to fine-dining experiences and cocktail bars most backpackers would feel wildly underdressed in. There are souvenir shops selling everything from classic tourist tat to beautiful traditional Mayan weaving. From Flores, you can take tours to Crater Azul, a cenote right on Lago Petén. Or you can book your 5 day trek to El Mirador, Mayan ruins deep in the jungle only accessible by foot (or helicopter, if you’re fancy).
You can pass the days lounging by Jorge’s Rope Swing, just a short boat ride away, or at any of the lake-front resorts accessible by boat. And the sunsets over the lake are unlike any I’ve ever seen anywhere else. Or spend your afternoon thrifting at the biggest MegaPaca in Central America, only 10 minutes away by tuktuk. Flores, in my opinion, is much more than a stopover.
Of course, the main reason people visit this part of Guatemala is to visit, in my opinion, the most impressive ruins I’ve ever seen: the ancient Maya city of Tikal. I won’t get into too much detail on visiting Tikal here, but visiting Tikal from Flores is beyond easy. Almost every hostel, hotel and even bar offer tours to Tikal. All you have to do is go in and ask how much it costs. I personally recommend booking a tour rather than just transport. Unlike Chichen Itza, the tours in Tikal are absolutely worth the extra fee, given the sheer size of the site.
If you’re arriving to Flores by shuttle, you’ll get dropped off by the Yo Amo Petén sign, at the end of the causeway. For onward travel, again most shuttles for Lanquín depart at 7am sharp from the Yo Amo Petén sign. Shuttles to Rio Dulce, San Ignacio/Belize City and Bacalar and Chetumal in Mexico will also leave from here. Public buses will arrive and leave from the bus station in Santa Elena, the connected town on the mainland.
The main way to get away from Flores on public transport is by night bus to Guatemala City, or the local buses to Tikal and the Belizean border. I don’t recommend taking public buses to Cobán or Lanquín from Flores. It’s way too far and the route is quite complicated. Also, at the time of writing, there is no direct connection to Quetzaltenango. You either have to spend the night in Lanquín, or connect in Guatemala City.
Semuc Champey
If you have had even a passing thought about travelling to Guatemala, chances are your algorithm has spat the name Semuc Champey back at you at least once. Videos of bright blue fairy pools, hostels with infinity pools overlooking beautiful rainforest vistas, and winding rivers. This is definitely a stop on most peoples bucket lists when they visit Guatemala.
But it can be a little confusing trying to organise a visit here. For one, Semuc Champey is super remote. The nearest city, Cobán, is around 90 minutes away by car. And getting to Lanquín, the town where most people stay to visit Semuc Champey, takes a full day of travel from pretty much anywhere else in the country. And you’re still at least 30 minutes away from the park itself!
Is it worth the journey? Absolutely. The view of the mountains is like nothing I’ve ever seen anywhere else. And the pools are just as beautiful in person as they are online. Add in the most chaotic cave tour I’ve ever taken in my life, and what’s not to love?
Most people will stay outside the park, in or around Lanquín. But some choose to stay in the park itself where you can come and go as you please. Where you choose to stay depends on your budget and what you want to do. I met a few people who actually stayed in Cobán!
The main attraction here is, obviously, Semuc Champey National Park. You can visit the park independently but I do recommend doing a tour. You can’t visit the caves without a guide. I did my tour with Zephyr Lodge, and they took us on the candlelit cave tour, up to the falls and then up to the Mirador overlooking the valley before coming back down for a swim in the famous “fairy pools”.
There are people around the town of Lanquín offering tours of Semuc Champey. However multiple locals told us not to book with them. Instead, shop around the local hostels and hotels or look online.
It’s not the only reason to visit Lanquín though! There are all sorts of hikes and miradors around the area that are worth the trek. One thing to note is, due to the local environment, certain activities don’t run during certain seasons. I know that the cave tours sometimes don’t run during the Wet Season due to the risk of flooding. And the river can run too low during the Dry Season for the rope swing or the cliff diving.
Getting to Lanquín is a bit of an adventure in itself. From pretty much anywhere, you would likely be arriving from, you’re looking at a minimum 8hr bus ride. For reference, when I came here in 2025 it took me 10hrs to get here from Flores, and 11hrs to get from Lanquín to Panajachel a few days later. One girl I met in Flores took 12hrs to make the journey. It depends on which route you take and which company you book with but ultimately you need to prepare for a long, full day of travel. When you arrive, if you’re staying in one of the hostels outside Lanquín like Zephyr, Greengos or Oasis, there will be someone to meet you when you arrive.
Lake Atítlan
It’s hard to condense the backpackers Mecca that is Lake Atítlan (Spanish: Lago de Atítlan) into a short summary, but I will do my very best. Central America’s deepest lake, nestled in a volcanic crater and surrounded by even more volcanoes on all sides. The lake has been an important source of life for the local indigenous communities for centuries. Now, it is one of Guatemala’s tourist hubs, with multiple towns dotted around its shores.
The biggest and most important town, Panajachel (pronounced Pana-ha-chelle) or Pana, as it’s known to locals and tourists alike, is the main transport hub on the lake. It’s home to supermarkets, restaurants bars, This is likely to be your first stop. If you’re short on time on the lake, you’ll likely also be basing yourself here.
Then, there’s San Pedro la Laguna, a backpackers paradise. If you’re coming here to party, then you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere better than the legendary Mr Mullets hostel. Not forgetting the countless bars both along the shore and further up into the town. San Pedro is also home to the bulk of the Spanish schools in Guatemala, so you may find yourself opting for a slightly slower pace of life here. It’s also the base to climb the San Pedro volcano.
A short drive away is San Juan la Laguna. My favourite town, full of colour and a hub for Mayan culture. Come here to take a weaving class, learn about the local culture, or wander the streets and just soak up the art. You can also have your photo taken on the famous Calle de las Sombrillas for the insta, if you’re that way inclined. San Juan is also home to the famous Kaqasiiwaan viewpoint that you have almost definitely seen on TikTok.
San Marcos la Laguna. It’s like marmite. A hippie haven, some people absolutely love it here. It’s pretty famous for it’s yoga retreats and is full of Western expats (I hate that term) looking for a slower pace of life. But to others it’s a gentrified nightmare, expensive and increasingly uninhabitable for the local people. I’m not the biggest fan, but it’s definitely at least worth a visit for the nature reserve, Cerro Tzankujil. The water is clean enough in the reserve to swim in, if you fancy.
Another swim spot and popular destination is Santa Cruz la Laguna. Home to the famous Free Cerveza hostel, and the slightly more laidback La Iguana Perdida. There isn’t all that much going on in Santa Cruz proper. But it’s worth staying a few days if you have the time to relax and do sweet fuck all. Or, you can explore the many hiking trails nearby, rent a kayak or paddle board. Or even just wander up to CECAP, a community-focused education centre with a cafe and an absolutely stunning view of the entire lake.
There are also other, less known towns. Like Santa Clara, where the hike to Rostro Maya/Indian Nose begins; Jaibalito, home to the world-famous Casa del Mundo; and Santiago Atitlan, much less touristy but still well worth a visit to see the Guatemalan folk saint Maximon.
Getting here and away is pretty straightforward. Most buses will arrive and depart from Panajache. Shuttles to and from here usually drop you at the Shell gas station near the docks. But you can also get shuttles from San Pedro to Antigua, El Parédon, and even Santa Ana and El Tunco in El Salvador.
To get around the lake, you will have to take a lancha. Many towns aren’t connected by road, so have to travel by boat. It’s pretty cheap, with a ticket between Panajachel and Santa Cruz running you around 15Q. While a one way ticket to San Pedro will likely cost around 25Q. Try to make any journeys earlier in the day, as in the afternoons, the wind picks up and visibility drops, making for some very bumpy rides. Any luggage you’re carrying will be strapped to the top of the boat, so you really don’t want that flying around.
You may notice that the locals pay a lot less than you do on the lanchas. This isn’t a scam. It’s common practice for the locals to pay 5Q for a journey that’ll cost you 20Q. Remember that the locals rely on these to live their daily lives. Don’t be that dickhead arguing with the captain over 15Q. That being said, don’t let them mug you off either. Higher prices for tourists will eventually mean higher prices for locals, as well. I found that once I knew how much it should cost, handing the correct amount over with confidence stopped anyone asking me for more. Ask around before you get on.
I will write a full guide on Lake Atítlan and all its towns and in the near future, as it’s impossible to do it justice in such a short summary. But it’s unfathomable to me that you would visit Guatemala and skip Atítlan.
Antigua
You ever seen those photos of people posing on a cobbled street under a faded yellow arch with what looks like a photoshopped volcano in the background? Welcome to Antigua.
I spent about 10 days here, and I think everytime I turned down a new street I had my breath taken away by the sheer ridiculousness of the views. It truly is like something out of a fairy tale. You could spend a month here and still not see everything.
Antigua Guatemala (literally translated to Old Guatemala) was the capital of the Spanish empire’s Captaincy General of Guatemala (named Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala), which at its peak stretched from Costa Rica to Chiapas, in Mexico. It is a must-do stop on any trip to Guatemala. If nothing else because about 80% of tourist shuttles and buses pass through here. You’ll probably end up in Antigua multiple times throughout your trip to Guatemala.
The centre and old town of Antigua is a UNESCO site, and is arguably the most famous destination in Guatemala for international travellers. In fact this is probably where you’ll see the most Western tourists throughout the whole country. The streets are busy all year round with people craning to get the perfect shot of Volcan de Agua, framed by the colonial streets.
For an extra taste of the local culture, try to be here just before and during Semana Santa. The whole city is taken over by holy processions and the streets are lined by “carpets” (pieces of artwork in on the cobbles made out of petals and coloured ash). Prices do skyrocket at this time of year and accommodation books out early, so factor this in.
Of course, a major reason to visit Antigua is to climb Acatenango (and Fuego, if you’re brave enough!). You can’t do this independently, but luckily there are only around a million different tours to take you up. The big hitters, like Soy, Tropicana, Wicho and Charlie’s etc all book out weeks ahead in the high season. But if you rock up with no plan even at the very peak of the dry season, almost every hostel and travel agent runs their own tour up the volcano. Where there’s a will there’s a way!
If you don’t fancy an overnight hike, you can do tours of Pacaya, a smaller but no less active volcano near the city. You can also get some pretty stunning views from the Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint. Much less strenuous but no less beautiful.
Antigua is home to a bustling food scene. Featured in season 8 of Somebody Feed Phil, the city hosts a wide range of restaurants, cafe’s and bars from around the world. I think I ate at the Japanese restaurant in the food market at least 3 times while I was there. And if you don’t fancy a high quality sit down meal, the street food markets and the food stall at the central market should be more than enough to keep you going.
I could ramble on about everything to do in Antigua. All you need to know is this is a touristy place for very good reason, and you simply have to come here.
To get here and away is really easy. Most destinations in Guatemala places are accessible from Antigua by shuttle. The exception is Flores. To get here from Flores and vice versa, you’ll likely have to connect through Guatemala City.
Antigua is also a major hub for international connections. From here it’s about 5 hours by shuttle on a good day to Santa Ana, El Salvador. You can also take shuttles from here to Copan Ruinas, and La Ceiba in Honduras. You can even get shuttles direct to León in Nicaragua or San Cristobal de las Casas in Mexico from here. But I’m not sure I’d ever recommend that, damn.
If you’re arriving or leaving by shuttle, you’ll probably be dropped off at the gas station near the Vitalmed medical centre, just outside the old town. It’s about a 30 minute walk to the centre of town from here. Shuttles to international destinations seem to pick up and drop off by the Parque Central. Sometimes, a guy will pick you up from you hostel in a car and drop you off at your bus. But I think this may have just been because I was staying a but further out from town.
Antigua is also really well connected by public bus. If you’re going to take a chicken bus in Guatemala, Antigua is probably the place to do it. The bus station and adjoined market can feel pretty overwhelming. But if you ask around, someone will likely talk you through your entire journey and all the connections you need to make.
Other spots
El Parédon
El Parédon. Guatemala’s sleepy beach-side surf town. Black volcanic sand beaches, a surprisingly bustling food scene and surf swells so large they’re famous all around the region. Seriously. I told a surf instructor in Nicaragua that my only other surfing experience was here and he seemed surprised I was still alive.
El Parédon is on the south-west coast and often gets left off peoples itineraries for Guatemala. I almost decided not to bother until I found myself at a loose end for a few days and thought “why not”.
People like to say that if you’re planning to visit El Tunco in El Salvador, to not bother with El Parédon as they’re functionally the same. This does have a grain of truth to it, but I do think both towns have their merits. El Parédon does have a much sleepier vibe to it than it’s Salvadoran counterpart. It’s smaller, generally quieter and not quite as well known. It’s also very popular with domestic tourists. You’ll probably find you meet more locals here than most other places you’ll visit in Guatemala.
There’s not really all that much to do here, but that is sort of the appeal. Surfing is obviously the big one – most places offer board rentals and there’s no shortage of places to get a lesson. You can also take a tour of the mangroves here. To the north-west of the town is the Sipacate-Naranjo National Park. Cocori Lodge runs a weekly Boat Party as well. This wasn’t running when I was there so I can’t comment on whether it’s any good!
El Parédon does have pretty good nightlife. There are quite a few bars, and most evenings there is some kind of social event run at the big hostels here, usually followed by an after party at Driftwood Surfer, then followed by an after-after-party at Hotel Mi Casa, on the beach until the wee hours. And every evening, people flock to the beach to watch the sunset. Often accompanied by a few Gallos and maybe a game of volleyball. It’s the perfect place to unwind a bit after a hectic few weeks of hiking and travelling.
One thing El Parédon isn’t is cheap. It’s quite isolated, accessible either by ferry across the Sipacate Estuary on one side, or on a dirt track through private land on the other, and bordered to the north by the national park, getting goods in and out is hard. So food, drinks and lodging here can be on the expensive side. However there are some hostels and guesthouses offering lower rates so you can do this on a budget.
One thing to note is that you can’t really swim here. The sea here is rough It’s perfect for surfing! But if you’re looking for a gentle paddle to cool off from the heat, you won’t find that here. El Parédon is famous for its breaks and wild swells. Last time I was here, there was such a huge swell that all the shops stopped renting boards for almost a week.
Getting here is equally fun. You can take a shuttle here from Antigua, Panajachel or San Pedro la Laguna. Depending which direction they arrive from, your shuttle will drop you off somewhere along the main road. Likely by the Super 24 convenience store by Mellow Hostel. You can get shuttles from here to Antigua, Atítlan and Guatemala City, as well as international shuttles to Santa Ana. Some shuttles pick up from the major hostels and hotels but you’ll likely need to meet your shuttle out at Mellow Hostel, on the edge of town.
To get here on the public buses, you will need to catch a bus to Escuintla, then another one to the town of Sipacate. Hop on the ferry across the estuary then get a tuktuk or walk to your hostel, depending which side of town you’re staying.
Quetzaltenango
Guatemala’s second largest city, Quetzaltenango (or Xela, as it’s known locally) is known by many as the Mayan capital of Guatemala, and is a hotspot for culture, hiking and Spanish schools. I haven’t visited Xela, but I met a lot of people who did and they absolutely loved it.
The main draw to Xela is the hiking, and by god is there a lot of hiking. Summiting Volcán Santa María will reward you with amazing views of Santiaguito, which erupts every hour or so. You can also hike from Xela to San Pedro la Laguna, with Quetzaltrekkers, with the added bonus that profits from your fee will go towards local social initiatives. Or maybe you want a real out there adventure? If so, you should look to climb Tajumulco, the highest point in Central America at 4220 metres.
If you’re not all that into hiking, don’t despair! Xela is considered by many to be one of the best places to learn Spanish in all of Guatemala! Why? Most of the population here are Ki’che Maya, and speak Spanish as a second language. Unlike in Atítlan and Antigua, not many people here speak English. So you have no choice but to practice what you learned in class. It’s also the reason Guatemalan Spanish, particularly that spoken in Los Altos, is considered to be one of the easiest dialects to learn. Everyone speaks pretty slowly and clearly here, making it much easier for new learners to understand.
Getting to and from Xela is pretty straightforward. Shuttles run from Antigua, Panajachel and Lanquín daily, but Xela is also pretty easy to get to by public bus. There is a direct bus from here to San Pedro that runs every day (except Sundays).
Rio Dulce & Livingston
I’m putting these two together, because if you’re visiting one, you’ll likely visit the other. Rio Dulce is a river in the east of Guatemala, in the Izabal department. The town of Rio Dulce is probably where you’ll base yourself. You’ll spend your days exploring the thick, humid jungle, spotting the wildlife and generally disconnecting from the outside world. The wildlife and scenery here is a far cry from anywhere else in Guatemala, given its proximity to the Caribbean coast, so if you have the time to spare it’s very much worth a visit.
Livingston is one of those places that really seems to divide opinion. Some people love it. The Garifuna culture here is totally unlike anything else in Guatemala, and the town and surrounding nature feel like a slice of Caribbean life deep in the Guatemalan jungle. Others say there’s nothing to do here, the streets are loud and dirty and you can’t swim in the sea due to contaminated waters. Guatemala’s best beach is very close to Livingston, if you do fancy a swim.
Who’s right? Who knows. All I know is that it’s totally unlike the rest of the country. And that has to be worth something, right?
Guatemala City
Tell any Guatemalan anywhere else in the country that you’re planning to visit Guatemala City, and they’ll either ask you something like “Why would you want to do that?”. Or they’ll clutch their pearls and say a prayer for you.
There isn’t much in the way of tourist draws in Central America’s largest city, but that isn’t to say there isn’t anything to do here. The city dates back to the 1700s, when the capital was moved from Antigua following a devastating earthquake. Much of the original architecture is still there, in Zona 1. Zone 4 is a trendy, post-industrial neighbourhood filled with cocktail bars, independent restaurants and street art. Zona 10 is home to museums and history, as well as absolutely obscene levels of wealth, particularly if you’ve been travelling in the north of the country before coming here. This is also where most hostels and hotels are.
Guatemala City is often avoided by travellers due to the safety aspect. I can’t comment on it directly as I’ve never been. But my understanding is that by taking a few precautions, you can visit Guatemala City safely. Is it worth visiting? I don’t know! My TikTok feed says yes but another solo female traveller I met in La Iguana Perdida said not so much.
Getting here and around
Getting to Guatemala and Entry Requirements
Guatemala is part of the CA-4 Visa Zone, along with Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. This means that once you are stamped in to Guatemala, you have 90 days for all four countries combined. For example, if you enter Guatemala from Belize, your 90 days starts. If you cross into El Salvador, the clock keeps ticking and doesn’t reset. If you need to extend your stay, you can do so by visiting the immigration office in Guatemala City, or by doing a border run into Belize or Mexico.
As of summer 2026, UK citizens do not require a visa to enter Guatemala. Your passport must have at least 6 months validity and at least one blank page for the entry and exit stamps. They may ask you for proof of onward travel when you arrive, usually a plane ticket, but it’s pretty rare. I don’t think I met a single person who was asked to provide this while I was there. If you arrive by air, they’re more likely to ask. But crossing by land, it’s usually assumed you’re just passing through.
If you have a stamp in your passport from a country considered a Yellow Fever risk, such as Colombia or Bolivia, you must provide your Yellow Fever vaccination certificate if asked.
You’re technically supposed to fill out an immigration form ahead of time. I found out about this form on the 20 minute bus ride from my hostel in San Ignacio to the border. Didn’t fill it out, didn’t get asked for it. I’m about 90% sure I didn’t fill any forms out at the border either. However this is completely anecdotal, so take that with a pinch of salt.
Guatemala shares a land border with four countries: Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador. All of these borders are pretty straightforward fairly easy to cross.
There is no entry fee to enter Guatemala by land. If the immigration officer asks you for a fee, ask for a receipt and they will usually let it go fairly quickly. You may also be approached by fixers offering to take care of any talking and paperwork for you for a fee. Don’t be tempted, there is no paperwork and the only Spanish you need to really understand is pasaporte.
Take extra caution at the borders with Mexico and Honduras, as some of these crossings are known drug trafficking routes. Don’t leave your bags unattended, don’t accept anything from anyone around the border zones and keep an eye on your belongings. The border with Belize, despite technically being disputed territory, is much less tense.
Guatemala has one international airport: La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. If you’re coming from Canada, USA or elsewhere in Central America, you may be able to fly here direct. However if you’re coming from Europe or Australia, you’ll likely have to connect through the US, Mexico or Colombia. Iberia does operate a direct flight between Madrid and Guatemala, but it appears to be seasonal.
Finally, did you know you can technically enter Guatemala by sea? There is a Water Taxi that operates from Punta Gorda in Belize to Puerto Barrios in Guatemala. It’s a pretty inconvenient way to enter either country as both Punta Gorda and Puerto Barrios are pretty far away from pretty much everything else you’re likely to visit. But if you’re looking to visit Livingston or Rio Dulce, it’s a pretty cool way to cross the border!
When to visit
The high season in Guatemala coincides with the Dry Season, from November to April. This time of year is dry, with little rain and clear skies. However, this time of year is also the most expensive time of year to visit, especially around Lent, Holy Week and Easter, which are huge celebrations in Guatemala shutting down entire towns. Accommodation prices skyrocket, and you will find it harder to plan things on the fly.
The wet season is from May to October, and this is also the low season for tourism. However you’ll still get experience everything Guatemala has to offer at this time of year. Guatemala isn’t known as the land of eternal spring for nothing! It rains for an hour or two in the afternoon and the views from certain miradors won’t be as clear. Certain activities don’t run, such as the cave tour in Semuc Champey and the boat party in El Parédon, so be sure to factor this in to your plans.
Getting around
A typical bus ticket, depending on the route, can cost anywhere between $1-$3, making it the cheapest option by far.
I’m going to go against what most travellers say about getting around Guatemala; I don’t really recommend the public buses.
Hear me out! The buses are known to foreigners as Chicken Buses, but the locals know them as camionetas. They’re a cheap way to get around, and they are arguably the best way to see the real Guatemala. Lots of hardcore backpackers and travel bloggers will wax poetic about how taking shuttles is cheating and you should only take the bus, it’s a more romantic way to travel and on and on and on.
However, there are serious concerns about safety. I’m not necessarily talking about personal safety (we’ll get into that later), but the safety of the roads and the buses themselves. The quality of the roads can be very poor, particularly in the more rural regions in the north and west of the country. And standards of driving across the country can be chaotic. This leads to a high rate of accidents on the road, ranging from a broken suspension to something much more serious.
When I was in Guatemala, there were huge protests against mandatory insurance following a high-profile bus crash. This isn’t to say that if you get on a bus, it will crash, but it’s worth baring in mind when you’re considering your options.
Moreover, the bus network in Guatemala just isn’t very convenient. The buses are usually owned by the drivers, particularly away from the main urban hubs, and they are responsible for the route. This leads to a huge, loosely connected network across the whole country, and nine times out of ten a journey that would take you 2 hours in a car would take you 6 hours and three transfers by bus. Compared to the intercity bus network in Mexico, and the fairly easy to navigate networks in El Salvador and Nicaragua, it can be difficult to wrap your head around.
None of this is to say you shouldn’t get any buses here. Sometimes these long days can be part of the adventure. A friend of mine traveled from Xela to Panajachel by bus, which you can usually do direct. However he was travelling on a Sunday, which changed the game. But when we met up with him a few days later he was all smiles, recounting the three buses and ride in the back of a pickup truck he had taken to get here, all aided by locals super keen to aid him in getting where he was trying to go. It’s just worth keeping in mind. Don’t let anyone tell you that by not taking the buses you’re not really travelling.
You can catch proper long distance coaches on certain routes. Flores to Guatemala City, for example, is serviced by a few different companies offering day and night buses. These coaches usually have reclining seats and AC, which is a really nice change from the rest of the public transit in the country. Internationally, TicaBus runs buses from Guatemala City to Tapachila in Chiapas, Mexico, as well as south to San Salvador and onwards to Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. These buses are relatively comfortable, though don’t expect luxury on either of these services.
The easiest, and most common way of getting around Guatemala is by tourist shuttle. Direct but much more expensive. Most of the places you’ll visit as a tourist will have various “travel agencies” offering shuttles, and more often than not they are all actually just selling seats on the same bus, so my advice is to shop around.
You can also book online via websites like GuateGo or Gekko. Personally, unless you’re booking from outside the country, I would recommend going to the operators direct. The online operators do charge a premium and often you end up on the same bus as someone who booked with a local agent for half the price. I almost exclusively booked my shuttles through travel agents on the streets and I was absolutely fine. And I paid way less than people who booked them online.
You can also fly from Guatemala City to Mundo Maya Airport, about 30 minutes from Flores. You used to be able to fly to Mundo Maya airport from certain airports in Mexico but these seem to have stopped now. Still, it’s a good option if you want to visit Tikal and don’t have a spare 12 hours for a nightbus.
Another option is to hire a car. I didn’t do this but I know some people who did. I’m not sure I’d recommend it, to be honest. The roads are very poor quality in most of the country and the driving is chaotic. If you’re going to hire a car, make sure your insurance is airtight and your reflexes are sharp!
Tips
Money
The currency of Guatemala is the Quetzal, named after the national bird. If you’re from the UK, congratulations! This is quite possibly the easiest currency conversion you will ever have to do. All you will need to do is divide the amount by 10, and you will know roughly what the price is in pounds. Bosh.
In the more touristy areas, like Antigua, Flores and some towns on Lake Atitlán, you can also pay for some services (such as hotels, shuttles, excursions etc) in USD. Bare in mind that vendors will refuse dollar notes with even the smallest deformities, as the banks won’t accept them. I once spent an hour exchanging my crisp Bureau de Change USD for some beaten up dollars with the owner of a hotel in Antigua.
Paying by card is becoming more common here, but it also comes with huge fees. One hostel I stayed at charged a 20% fee to pay by card.
ATMs in Guatemala also have some of the highest fees I have ever seen. The fees vary by company, but the one exception seems to be the red BAC machines, but these are few and far between and tend to run out of money faster than the others. I’m not usually one to tell you to always carry huge amounts of cash on you, however the exception would be if you’re planning to travel to Lanquín. There is one cash point in the town, and it runs out of money early. Once its out, its out. In fact, I don’t think I ever managed to withdraw cash here, and I had to pay for my hostel by card.
ATMS are pretty safe to use, as they’re usually inside shops or pharmacies, and sometimes they’re even guarded by security. Obviously the usual rules apply here. Keep your wits about you, cover your pin etc.
Language
The main language spoken in Guatemala is, of course, Spanish. If you don’t speak any Spanish at all, you’ll get by okay, particularly if you’re sticking to Antigua and Lake Atítlan. But if you’re planning on going to the more rural and/or less touristic parts of the country like Xela and Chichicastenango, you might struggle.
As with any country, you should always learn a few basic phrases. It’s respectful and polite. Plus, people will generally like it if you at least try. Guatemalans love it when you try speaking in Spanish and will shower you in compliments on your Spanish if you can string together the most basic sentence.
A few basic words and phrases you could commit to memory include:
- Buenas Dias/Tardes/Noches – Good morning/afternoon/evening (you can also use Buenas as a casual greeting
- Por favor – Please
- Gracias/Muchas gracias – Thank you/Thank you very much
- Disculpe/Pérdon – Excuse me/Sorry
- Donde esta… – Where is…
Worth noting that in some very rural parts of the country and in some of the villages on Lake Atítlan, Spanish isn’t actually that widely spoken, particularly among the elderly. The locals will speak one of the many Mayan languages that are indigenous to the country. However, as a tourist, it’s unlikely this will affect you very much.
Communication and Useful Resources
I found WiFi to be pretty widely available here, particularly in Antigua, San Pedro la Laguna and El Parédon. The WiFi in most hostels and hotels is pretty good. However in most hostels it’s often confined to the common areas. Some towns have public WiFi in the main squares, and many cafe’s and restaurants also have WiFi you can use. Of course, you should always use public WiFi with caution.
You can get a SIM card here from most tiendas (small, locally owned shops). The main companies are Claro and Tigo, and you will see signs for them everywhere. It’s incredibly cheap and the coverage is pretty much equal for them both. You literally just go into any shop with a sign of either company outside it, and ask for the package you want. They’ll usually help you set it up as well. If you want to top it up, you’ll need to go back to a shop to do so.
I don’t really recommend using an E-SIM here. They have their uses don’t get me wrong. But the local, physical SIMs are so cheap I just personally don’t think it’s worth it. Also, these E-SIMs don’t give you an local number, so you can’t make calls except to emergency services. Good luck ordering miso soup from PediosYa when you’re holed up in a hotel room in Antigua recovering from the worst bout of norovirus you’ve ever had without a local number (don’t ask me how I know this).
As is the case almost everywhere in Latin America, WhatsApp is king here. Booking tours, hostels, Spanish Schools and transport will likely all involve WhatsApp. When I went to hospital in Antigua I had to do all my follow up with the doctor over WhatsApp. This is particularly useful if you don’t speak any Spanish, as you can just copy-paste any messages you don’t understand into google translate. Unless it’s a voice note, of course. f you don’t use it, start using it. It is possibly the one non-negotiable app. Even if you switch your SIM out, your number on WhatsApp will always remain the same so make sure you download WhatsApp before you arrive.
If you’re trying to get around on public transport, don’t bother using Rome2Rio or any travel search engine like that. It’s okay with intercity coaches but it’s generally useless anywhere south of Mexico and north of Costa Rica. Centrocoasting has laid out some routes out of Antigua, butthere’s no info on the rest of Guatemala.. Also, the site itself doesn’t seem to have been updated since 2018 so the information may be very outdated. Ask around at your hostel or do some research online. There’s no real cheat code to this, I’m afraid. You’re probably going to have to ask around at the bus station.
Customs
In most of Guatemala, people tend to dress conservatively. Particularly in the highlands, the women will wear long traditional skits and the men will dress in jeans and long-sleeved shirts. Even in the urban areas, it’s not all that common to see Guatemalan people flashing a lot of skin. Of course, the locals understand that you’re a tourist, and you’ll be fine wearing shorts and t-shirts in most places. But in more rural areas it is respectful to cover up a bit more. If nothing else, you’ll probably feel a bit naked if you’re the only person in workout shorts in a sea of full-length jeans. Plus, it can get cold in the highlands!
In El Parédon, for example, it’s not uncommon to see people walking up and down the main street in swimwear, but you should always wear a shirt and shoes to go into a restaurant or store. And you should cover your shoulders at the very least if you plan on visiting any of the cathedrals or ruins in Antigua. At best, you’ll get funny looks. At worst, you’ll be denied entry.
Tipping is not really expected outside of Antigua and some towns on Lake Atítlan. There are mixed messages about whether you should tip or not. In one camp, you should tip because wages are very low here, but in the other you shouldn’t as it encourages the practice and makes life more expensive for everyone, including locals. Personally, I always tip guides, and in restaurants I will round up to the nearest 10%. Street food vendors often have jars for tips, and I will pop a few notes in.
Guatemalans generally do not like having their photo taken, especially without permission. If you want to take photos of people, you should always ask first. And you should be prepared that they may ask you for money. Never take photos of children. This should be common sense for literally every destination you travel to, but it rings especially true in Guatemala. There are many historic (and some not so historic) cases of mass child abduction and trafficking in Guatemala, so people are understandably very wary of strangers taking photos of children.
You may get approached in the streets of Antigua or Panajachel by vendors trying to sell you tours of excursions. Most of the time, they’ll back off with a simple No gracias. The exception is the children in Semuc Champey. These kids are relentless. I got marked by one boy trying to sell me a beer when I entered the park and he still remembered my face nearly 8 hours later. I wouldn’t recommend buying anything from these kids. We were told by our guides that the parents will take them out of school young because they can help make money for the household instead by selling water shoes and chocolate to tourists.
This last one isn’t a custom per se, more a law. A friend told me, once I’d left the country, that I should always carry a form of Photo ID. And in San Pedro specifically, if asked, the police would not accept a copy or photo. I’ve since looked this up and it appears to be true. Now, I don’t think I saw a single police officer the entire fortnight I was in San Pedro. But I am imparting this tidbit to you, as it was once imparted to me.
Safety
Googling “is Guatemala safe” will often bring up some absolutely eye-watering statistics about crime, violence, murder and sexual assault. I met an American man in Madrid who, when I told him I was going to Guatemala, seemed to think I was either kidding or insane. And it’s true, to an extent. Poverty is rife, inequality is inescapable and there is, statistically, a very high rate of violent crime.
However, the truth is that as a tourist, Guatemala is generally pretty safe to travel. It’s been a “hidden gem” for backpackers for years now. People flock from all over the world to see Lake Atitlán, and I met more than a few American retirees living in and around Antigua.
Most violent crime in Guatemala is gang and/or drug related, and confined to certain areas of the country. As a tourist, it is highly unlikely you’ll see any of this unless you go looking for it. Of course, no travel is 100% safe. But by using your common sense and following basic safety rules, you should be absolutely fine.
Avoid walking home alone at night, particularly after you’ve been drinking. The only time I felt truly unsafe was while walking home alone from a bar in Antigua the day before Easter. A very drunk man tried to follow me to my hotel. He eventually cleared off when the woman who owned the hotel came out and threatened to beat him up.
Always keep an eye on your drinks, and try not to get absolutely plastered, particularly if you’re alone. And if you’re going to be doing any drugs, proceed with caution. Almost every story I heard about people getting into sticky situations here involved a bump of coke. Besides, you’re in a part of the world where people have suffered immensely because of the drug trade. Why would you take part in it here, of all places?
Avoid well known hotspots for crime and violence. Use your common sense, because why on earth are you wandering around Zona 3 at night, waving your iPhone in peoples faces and shouting in English. It screams “Rob me!!” If you’re in doubt, ask your hostel, hotel, or a local where you should avoid, they’ll be more than happy to help you.
Armed robbery and muggings are fairly uncommon among tourists, however it’s not unheard of, particularly at night or in places like Guatemala City. If you do find yourself the victim of a mugging, just hand it over. Nothing is worth more than your life.
If you’re going out hiking, try not to go alone. Particularly around Lake Atítlan, lone hikers have found themselves getting robbed on the trails, especially on Volcán San Pedro and on the trail between San Marcos and Santa Cruz. If you do go alone, especially on some of the more remote hikes around Xela or Lanquín, make sure someone knows you’re going and what time you expect to be back.
Finally, if you’re a woman you may find yourself receiving some unwanted attention. It’s a bit less common in Guatemala than, say, Mexico or Nicaragua. But men will still sometimes whistle, kiss or shout at you in the street. It can be incredibly unpleasant but try to ignore it. I personally found that 9 times out of 10, by the time I’d turned around to see who it was, they’d already moved on to the next one. There are certain areas I felt more unsafe. Parts of San Pedro can feel sketchy at night, and I was told by a few people not to go near the beach in El Parédon alone between 11pm and sunrise.
Health and Wellbeing
You should make sure you are up to date with any vaccines before you enter Guatemala. As of summer 2025, the only vaccine requirement is a Yellow Fever certificate if you have been to a country deemed as “high risk” in the past. However, I would recommend a Hepatitis A, Tetanus and Typhoid vaccination, especially if you are planning to do any hikes or visit the jungle or more rural regions.
You should also consider a Rabies vaccine. Parts of Guatemala have a big street dog problem And while there are community-led initiatives in certain regions to reduce the numbers, rabies is still a real threat. You may find yourself 6 hours away from the nearest hospital needing a post-exposure treatment. Getting the vaccine before you travel just buys you a few more hours in the worst case scenario.
There is a risk of mosquito-borne illnesses like Chikungunya and Dengue in Guatemala, so use insect repellent and wear longer-sleeves at dawn and dusk. You can buy repellent in most larger stores and in pharmacies; I recommend the green OFF! Spray, particularly if you’re like me and seem to attract mosquitoes more than the average person.
Most of the main tourism-hubs in Guatemala are above 1500m, so these diseases aren’t really a huge risk. However there is a risk of malaria in Izabal and Escuintla departments. It is a low risk, but malaria is endemic in these regions. So if you are planning to visit Rio Dulce/Livingston or El Parédon it is worth baring in mind.
Gastrointestinal issues are, unfortunately, pretty common among tourists here. Ask around in your dorm and you will probably meet someone who got food poisoning from the street food market in Antigua, someone who got a parasite from swimming in Lake Atítlan, and someone who just has a dodgy stomach from drinking water from an unchanged water filter. It’s like bingo but for tummy troubles.
The bright side of this is that it’s so common it’s usually super treatable. I rocked up to a doctor in Antigua and he gave me a diagnosis of Giardia L from just looking at me, and fair play to him, he was right. Most towns have a pharmacy where you can get basic medical advice, and there are English speaking doctors in Panajachel, Antigua and Guatemala City.
Most doctors surgeries have labs attached to them. So on the off chance you need a blood or stool sample, they’ll likely be done in house. If you’re in an area where there isn’t an English speaking doctor, they can still help you, you just might find yourself relying on gestures and google translate. Don’t go to the public hospitals. They’re oversubscribed and underfunded, and the likelihood is the staff there will send you to a private hospital anyway.
You can take precautions to reduce your chances of getting majorly ill. Don’t drink the tap water and don’t use it to wash fruit or brush your teeth. Most hostels provide filtered water, or you can buy big bottles at any local shop for less than a dollar.
When eating street food, eat at the busy stands and don’t eat anything that’s been left out for a long time. I was also advised by some locals not to eat pork here but I’m not too sure why that it is, so I won’t advise against it.
If you’re going to swim in Lake Atítlan, don’t swim in San Pedro, San Juan or Panajachel. The water here is filthy, and even the locals don’t really swim here. Instead, swim in Santa Cruz, Jaibalito and San Marcos. Equally, there are lots of stories of people getting sick after swimming in Lake Petén. And when doing the cave tour in Semuc Champey, do not under any circumstances get any water in your mouth.
Don’t flush anything down the toilets here. The sewage systems can’t handle toilet paper. There will be a bin next to the toilet for you to out anything. And if you use tampons, you may want to get used to the idea of using pads, as tampons are hard to come by in Guatemala.
Cost
A lot of travel blogs will tell you that Guatemala is super affordable, you can really make your money stretch here, luxury for half the price etc. That may have been true ten years ago, when Guatemala was truly a hidden gem. Now? Everyone and their nan seems to be in Antigua in the high season. And Casa del Mundo has appeared in one to many Year in Review travel roundups for Guatemala to be considered a niche destination.
This means Guatemala is nowhere near as cheap to travel as it was before. It’s no Costa Rica, but the days of $5 beds in San Juan are loooong gone. Out of all the countries in the CA-4 zone, Guatemala is probably the priciest in my experience.
On average, I spent around £20 a night on accommodation, usually a bed in a mixed dorm in March and April 2025. Most of these hostels included a free breakfast and free coffee throughout the day. Now this was during the peak of the high season, during Lent and Holy Week, so you can probably expect to pay closer to £15 on average a night at most other times.
Hostels with kitchens seem to be a bit of a rarity in Guatemala. I had something resembling a kitchen in Flores, and didn’t see one again until I arrived in El Salvador over a month later. Lots of hostels will have a cafe or restaurant attached, and they will try to encourage you to eat there, which will drive up your costs. This is especially common in more remote areas like Lanquín and El Parédon. However most hostels do include a breakfast or, at the very least, free coffee. If there is a kitchen, you may find it’s just two hotplates, some blunt knives and a kettle.
The street food isn’t as exciting as it is in Mexico, but it’s still very tasty and it will fill you up. Shucos are very common in Antigua and Guatemala City. And there’s a guy slinging 3 Guatemalan-style tacos in the main square of Flores for Q15 (about £1.50). You can’t go wrong really.
You can find beds for incredibly cheap if you know where look. I got my head down in San Pedro for about £8 a night, right on the main drag. Worst nights sleep I had all trip but it was so so cheap! Some places are more expensive than others. I found Antigua and El Parédon to be more expensive, while San Juan and Flores had much more budget options.
What will really drive up your costs in Guatemala is the activities. Big ticket items like Acatenango, Semuc Champey tours, surfing lessons in El Parédon etc all come with a premium price tag. To keep costs lower, consider opting for self-guided tours in places like Semuc Champey.
Shuttles will also inflate your budget. This is an expense that most people don’t factor in as it’s not really as much of a thing elsewhere in Central America. If you don’t want to take buses at all and only want to take shuttles, avoid booking them online or in your hostel, and shop around the travel agencies in town. Nine times out of ten, it’s the same bus, just a different price tag. We actually ended up getting a discount on our shuttle from Flores to Lanquín because the travel agent thought we were funny and came drinking with us. And a few weeks later I got a deal on a shuttle from San Pedro to El Parédon because I muddled through the whole interaction in Spanish and the man selling the tickets thought it was so endearing he knocked off 50Q.
Finally, all this is great, but sometimes you want to stay at the cool hostel you saw online. That’s great, you should! But these hostels are not cheap. The most expensive stays in Guatemala are the ones that inspired you to travel there in the first place. Zephyr Lodge in Lanquín; Free Cerveza in Santa Cruz; Cocori Lodge and Mellow Hostel in El Parédon. Consider deciding which one you’re dying to stay in the most, and pick that one. Most of the time, you can use the facilities at these hostels without actually staying there!
All in all, I think I averaged around £40 a day in Guatemala. Could I have done it cheaper? Absolutely. But I would’ve sacrificed experiences that I really wanted to do. So you can do Guatemala for dirt cheap, you just need to decide what’s important to you personally.
I hope you found this guide useful when planning your trip. Guatemala is a beautiful, chaotic, incredible place and somewhere that I think everyone should visit at least once.